who ... moi?

a social butterfly: scared of much, but not of many. never lets the truth get in the way of a good story. not a fan of acronyms, snakes and angelina jolie. a HUGE fan of Fathead.

this blog is black for ENERGY-SAVING reasons.

thanks for your understanding.
if it's too dark, put your glasses on old one.

Monday, February 22, 2010

a breakdown of our break

we entered this holiday with much more pressure than would be expected:

what would we fill our week with? where would we go?

the phillipines?   ...  no, too expensive (given the fact that every korean goes there at this time of year).  so we looked into other holiday destinations - saigon, taiwan, manila... all far beyond our budget.  prior to going bankrupt we chose to "keep it local" and decided to stay in SK for the week.   which if you think about it, makes sense seen as we're only here for 6 months, and the opportunity for us to do any long distance travel during this time, is unlikely to present itself again.

so during the build up to our break, we stopped at every tourist info centre (okay, we stopped at all three) collecting maps and brochures (most of which were in japanese).  subway lines and tour routes were sellotaped to our room wall, and the days were filled with debates on where to go, the duration of each visit and the activities we intended to tick off the ever-growing list.

looking back on the week, we managed to cover a fair bit of ground - as you will see in the following few posts, which i've decided to spread over the next few days as there's too much to try and cover in one go. 

that said, we'll start with last friday

blowing off some steam, we celebrated the beginning of our holiday with a wee night on the town

the following day we went to a neighbouring town to book bus tickets for our first trip - a journey that would begin at 5am the following morning.  with tickets in hand, we decided to stroll our yatap.  this city district is ratherdrab and boring, most of it a repeat of other parts of other urban areas in and around seoul.

still, we gave it the benefit of a good exploration.  one thing that is far more frequent in yatap than our area, is the amount of live seafood kept outside quaint dining nooks.

these tanks line the walkways throughout yatap.  this on in particular held a weird and wonderful collection of live shellfish ... check out the mammoth mussel-type creatures in the top right.  WFT? (click to enlarge)

during our stroll, we bumped into the look-alike of an old friend ... anyone reconise this chicken?

how uncanny is the resemblance?!

last weekend - trip to gyeongju

before the city awoke on sunday morning, Fathead had dragged me out of the warmth of bed, popped me into a taxi, hauled me through the yatap bus terminal and off we set for our first cross-country adventure to gyeongju.

 (click to enlarge this map) 

we're based just south east of seoul  (still considered a district of seoul, actually).  where we went was to the far south east coast of the country ... see where gyeongju is?

what's incredible is that you can cross the country in about 5 hrs by bus.  you can't even leave the western cape in that much time. 

although a short trip, i'm sure you'll agree that 5 hr's in a cramped, smelly, creaky, smokey bus is hell on earth anyway.

fortunately for us, we weren't on that bus.  instead, we found ourselves seated in first-class airline seats.  luxurious leather couches which received us like the embrace of an old friend.  heated seats.  foot rests and enough leg room to do the highland fling whilst seated.

it was rad.

we even had on-board entertainment - a gripping reality show detailing the shenanigans of a "naughty boys weekend away".  

these guys were crazy i tell you - getting up to the most daring of things ... dressing up, playing "hacky sack" with a purple tinsel poof (manne - maak gereed vir oorlog).  
it was wild man!   well, the winner - he was the main man - he walked away with his very own stuffed fluffy toy train (with a smiley face).
  looka how hapi i am to hab won my new bester plend

when the bus arrived in gyeongju we hopped off into the middle of nowhere and just stood there, looking lost - like two lost tourists who've just been dropped off in the middle of nowhere.

picking a direction (using only our internal compasses, and a came of rock-paper-scissors to determine the winner) we began to roam the streets in search of a coffee shop in which we could dump our backpacks and formulate our p.o.a

however, being the lunar new year, everyone was at home with their families.  every soul was out of sight. even the green and red men in the traffic lights had taken the day off.  

everyone, that is - except for this ajumama (korean for little old lady). 

the elderly dear runs a coffee shop hidden two floors up, behind a billiards room and above a tiny cafe.  no neon light, not flashy business sign ... just the humblest, handwritten card announcing that in this nook and cranny, you will find "live coffee". 

and in what could have been her living room, we did.   

from the rubble pile of back packs and jackets, scarves, gloves, coffees, ashtrays, lonely planet guides and streets maps - we plotted our journey. 

first stop, the home in which we would spend the night. 
sa rang chae (click for details)

the entrance to our bedroom

do come in and make yourself at home ... 

so this is the entrance foyer, master bedroom, lounge and dining area ... 

behind you, the front door and courtyard

and through this door sized for asian-people, you'll find the en-suite bathroom

i'm taking the piss though - it was an incredibly beautiful place. this means of accommodation (known as a homestay) is a great way for a foreigner to immerse themselves in the authentic korean way of life.

over 200 years old this characterful home belonged to a couple, mr & mrs choo, who welcomed us with a familiar warmth that we're becoming quite accustomed to.

the courtyard surrounding the guest bedroom is filled with interesting crafts and handmade ceramic bits and bobs.  an exquisite, antique chess set lies casually on the breakfast table, whilst ancient artifacts that they've either inherited or excavated scatter the garden area.  

inside their home, there is a communal family area where you can access internet, play a game of jenga, try on traditional korean dresses, make traditional crafts, help yourself to breakfast and even, pump your own drinking water from an ancient well around which their house has been built. 

Fathead prepares scrambled eggs ... simple, yet one of our greatly-missed home comforts

mr choo enjoys his morning read

eventhough the homestay feels like you're in the depths of korea, the house is a collage of foreign leave-behinds ... a reminder of how many travellers have found themselves sleeping on these floors.  small hand-scrawled notes of appreciation and promises to return cover the walls - notes from every corner of the globe. 

a favourite of mine - the australian view of the world (this one's for boozy and wheezy)

out in the streets of gyeongju, we found a weird and magical place.  with the new year drawing everyone indoors, the town was completely abandoned.  never before have we been in anything closer to a "ghost town".  

it was such an intriguing experience. 
viewing the many craft shops, buddist art galleries, bars, restaurants, clubs, hotels, love motels, chain stores ... it was clear that usually this place is a hive of activity. yet on this day, not even a stray dog was in sight.  market places were exactly as their stall owners had left them.  it was as if, the entire town has suddenly and without warning, been evacuated.

a little disappointed that we were unable to feel the energy of the place, we took the opportunity to visit the many ancient heritage sites which can be found in any direction you choose to walk.

gyeongju has modernised itself out of a natural progression and necessity - but at the core, it remains one of the oldest and most historically rich areas of south korea.

in and amongst the malls and markets, ancient tombs majesticall rise up - reminding you that beneath the pavings lies a land soaked in history, dynasty rule, blood shed and ritual.

beneath these tombs lie great warriors, noble men and royal family members.

to give you an idea of the scale of these (of which there are many to be found all over the city) - see the two very tiny people standing in the foreground?

bulguksa temple

this is one of the most prominently important temples in korean history.  it was built in 774 during the reign of king hyegong.  it was the centre of silla buddhism and of prayer for the protection of the country against invasion.   

ironically it was japanese invaders who burnt it to the ground in 1593.  though the main hall and a few other principal parts of the temple were rebuilt - it was only around the late 60's that it was completely restored. 

inside the temple gates, two stone pagodas have been resurrected - both having been excavated from the ruins, both important cultural properties of the silla dynasty.  along with these retrieved temple components, two bridges, a gate, two seated gilt bronze statues are also now safely back in their rightful place.

in 1995, the temple was designated as a world cultural heritage site by UNESCO.

i would imagine that in springtime these hills are lush and green and the walkway is filled with cherry blossoms

three gods

mountain spring fills an ancient fountain

as we were there on such a spiritual day, many local families visited the temple to carry out traditional rituals of prayer.  inside the temple, no cameras were allowed (obviously) - but if you enlarge this image, you can see some of the buddist monks receiving worshippers affirmations of health and good fortune for the new lunar year.

two turtle necks
i've been to buddist temples before, but this visit was particularly humbling.  here, we were welcome observers of very private religious moments, and as such were expected to keep our distance and silence in respect to those worshippers who had come to the temple to use it as it was intended, rather than to view it as a photo opportunity.

sipping from the spring fountain and making a wish of good fortune for the new year, were small respectful gestures we did take part in. 

here, Fathead adds one small pebble to a pile - these towers are built up communally, each level representing an individuals' prayer for healthy and happiness in the coming year.


this bell is a replica of the one that was destroyed in the japanese invasion.  the original has a dark and twisted legend which tells the story of how when the bell was first struck, it failed to ring.  the king ordered it to be recast and when struck again, it cracked. 

several unsuccessful attempts were made, until a celestial spirit appeared in a dream to the head priest of the temple.  in the dream, it was indicated that the fire spirit dragon needed to be appeased, and only then would the bell ring.   to acheive this, a young girl who was born in the year, month, day and hour of the dragon needed to be thrown  into the molten mental from which the bell would be made. 

this was done - the bell was poured and set - and when struck, the bell did not crack.  however, legend says, the sound of the bell's ring resonated with the tortured cry of the young girl, calling for her mother. 

okay - i'll admit that's not exactly what you'd call "ending on a high note"

... but despite that disturbing tale, we had an amazingly peaceful and grounding afternoon. 


  1. This is a very interesting blog and so i like to visit your blog again and again. Keep it up.



  2. Thanks Alan ... I really appreciate the support, especially when it comes from a stranger, and fellow-blogger. Will check out your blog now. BTW, how did you stumble across mine?